Visit the Silk Island (Koh Dach)

Koh Dach, Phnom Penh is an island about 15km north of Phnom Penh on the Mekong River. There are two reasons to visit this 30 square kilometre island -- for the beach, or to check out the handicrafts that local artisans make.

For a last minute, getaway day trip, there are few places that can satisfy this thirst for new settings. One of these is Silk Island – whose name is often used  to refer to Koh Dach and Koh Oknha Tey island. Connected by an old metal bridge, the two islands are about 15 kilometers north of the center of Phnom Penh.

One Friday morning, I met a colleague, photographer Jonathan Pannetier, to start our little exploration. After passing over the Japanese Friendship Bridge to the Chroy Changvar Peninsula, we drove north on National Highway 6 and then to the access road to two docks where ferries leave for Koh Dach island. 

On the ferry, snacks and drinks were available, including cookies and fruits. Fascinated by the remarkable ability of the boat vendor to turn a simple pineapple into a sculpture, I decided to buy one and have that juicy refreshment during the cruise. The travel took 15 minutes and cost 500 riels (less than $ 0.15) per person and per motorbike.

Once we docked, a fresh air and nice breeze welcomed us.

Our boat stopped at the tip of Koh Dach, but a ferry that carries passengers to its middle is also available. Following the advice of an island resident, we toured the nicer and smaller Koh Oknha Tey island, we crossed a rickety bridge that reminded me a bit of the Far West.

On the other side of the bridge, an abundance of greenery struck me. Fields of taro, corn, banana and papaya trees could be seen everywhere. 

The island also is famous for its silk trade. Locals are more than happy to show visitors their work. In the patio of one of many traditional houses on stilts, we were greeted by a woman with a big smile and a curious Star Trek t-shirt weaving a pink silk wedding skirt. 

Pia Sophoua, a kind neighbor of the weaver who could speak English, explained that it takes from one week  to one and a half months to prepare a skirt, depending on complexity of design. She told us stories related to this ancient tradition and confessed her disappointment on seeing so many young people leaving the island traditions to work in city factories and earn higher salaries.

On Koh Oknha Tey, turning left after the bridge, there  is a silk village which is worth a visit. Here visitors can learn more about the industry, wander around a peaceful park, and do some shopping. With an admission fee of $1, you can see all processes involved in silk production, starting from breeding of silkworms to weaving. 

Among  many picnic areas scattered around the park we spotted an oasis of peace right along the river. Here it is possible to enjoy refreshing drinks, which usually cost less than a dollar, or have some food, including a whole chicken for $12. After lunch, visitors can relax and escape the heat by swinging on hammocks shaded by trees or chill in typical huts scattered around the park.

After our educational trip, we visited Wat Jorng Koh, a lovely temple where children of a nearby school cheerfully interacted with us and a sculptor shaped a Naga to decorate the pagoda terrace. We stopped for a while, enjoying the panorama and the gentle breeze. 

Finally, we drove to Koh Dach. There it’s  possible to relax on the Mekong River beach, on the north-east side of the island. Here huts are free upon buying food. Otherwise they can be rented for no more than $1. 

We preferred just to experience the bucolic life of the island. While driving around, we stopped to stroll and fill our eyes with perfect postcards of rural life. 

Some scenes spoke of the simple, yet rich daily life in the countryside: a woman with her sarong picking fruits in the field, an old man crossing a narrow street with a tiny brown horse, a small shop on the street with a little girl playing with fruits cows happily chewing grass and even giving kisses to each other (something I had never seen before!) 

On our way back, we looked one more time at the peaceful island, feeling refreshed after having the chance to get rid of our watches, and to get lost in space and time among nature and its little wonders.  

Additional notes:

For visitors who want to stay on the island after sunset, the last ferry from the mainland leaves at 8:30pm. They will do a special late charter trip for $10, if you phone and wake up the ferry captain.